LAMB 116-765 110v

This is one of the most popular vacuum motors in the medium to high priced built-ins.
It is also widely used in commercial applications.

 3 stage:  3 internal rotating fans.
5 .7"-  the   diameter across the fan chamber.

By-pass: cooling air is separate from the suction flow so no liquids etc can contact the electrical components.

Double ball:two ball bearings (608 comm end, 6000 fan end)

HI-PERFORMANCE :uses Hi-perf. carbons, and in
later years, a larger cooling fan.

110v /14.5amp or 230v/ 7amp



Although it should go without saying, mechanical and electrical repairs should be left to qualified mechanics with most of their fingers still attached.
These motor fans spin at an incredible rate.
The body is metal and will give a hell of a shock if you ground the field winding or leads (believe me).

Trouble shooting is pretty straight forward; -If you see excessive sparking (flashing)at both carbon brushes or around the commutator, and notice high current draw (20 amps) and a burning smell, you can be pretty sure the armature is shot.

The cost of an armature,carbons and bearings makes repair a no go financially.

-if the motor is noisy and grinds when slowing down,
one or both of the bearings is seizing or running dry.
As long as the armature is not dammaged, it is a fairly easy job to press on 2 NEW bearings and seat in a new pair of carbons. 
About a $75.00 - $85.00 job at a good repair shop if you hand them the motor. Add another $20.00 if we have to remove it from the vacuum.
If the motor just humms but does not smell strongly of burnt insulation,
don't run it anymore!!! You may only have a seized top or lower bearing, but you will BURN IT OUT if you keep trying to run it.
Repair it  as above.
If you hear a lot of tearing metal sounds when running,
you may have broken 1 or more of the 3 fans in the housing. Repair is quite economical compared to replacement (about $200.00 for a new 116 765 motor)

If the machine makes only a single clicking sound when turned on,or no sounds or smells at all, 
you should check the relay and transformer  or circuit board for available high (110) and low (24) volts before you tear the motor out, then check the carbons and /or armature etc.

When changing bearings always use a bearing press, and  apply pressure to the inner hub ONLY!!! 
When installing new carbon brushes, a professional shop will seat them in at a lower voltage, gradually increasing to full power. If you do it without a transformer device and
 you still see a lot of flashing, borrow a seater stone and carefully dress the comm until only a smooth even line of electrical sparking is left. (do not use emory cloth, as it will embed metal in the commutator)
In our experience a new motor will run for 8-12 years under normal household use, and then about 1/2 that again when rebuilt. A second rebuild is optomistic but possible.
If you have repeatedly re-set the circuit breaker on a high amp drawing motor, it may be dammaged and cut out even on a good motor. Replace it with the same rated breaker.
Questions?(short comments)

Call, visit or e-mail Rob at;
604-874-9424  fx (7816)
1721 kingsway, Vancouver B.C.